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Welcome to our series: Alternative Exercises. In this series we explore different forms of working out, explain the benefits that can be found, and help you to get started. Read on to learn more about how to get started with rock climbing and bouldering.
Introduction
Whether you are looking for a unique experience or a new exercise routine, rock climbing might be just what you are looking for. It is a fun and social way to get a full body workout in. For the purposes of this article, we will be discussing indoor rock climbing. Specifically, at commercial gyms that could act as a replacement to a traditional gym membership.
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Rock Climbing vs Bouldering
Rock climbing used to be considered an outdoor only adventure sport. While the outdoor climbing community still exists, a new community has begun to develop around indoor climbing gyms. These gyms cater to climbers who want a safe, indoor space to train and to people with an active lifestyle looking for a new, exciting way to exercise.
While there are some subtleties to the differences between bouldering and rock climbing, a lot of the general ideas carry over and we recommend trying both to see which one better suits your goals and abilities. Both can be a great way to try something different, meet new people, and shake up your fitness routine.
Bouldering
Bouldering is common in both indoor and outdoor settings, and it involves less equipment as you won't need a rope or harness. The max height for a bouldering wall is around 30ft in the air; because it is much shorter, bouldering routes tend to focus on quick bursts of strength more than forearm and core endurance. The holds are smaller and positioned so the emphasis is on shifting your weight into the grip.
Bouldering has more flexibility in the sense it can be horizontal, vertical, and even overhead if the gym has a cave. Bouldering is a great way to get more serious about climbing and get a good workout if you plan on only climbing at indoor gyms.
Rock Climbing
While rock climbing can refer to all 3 areas, (bouldering, top roping, and lead climbing), it is often used in reference to climbing with a rope and harness. This includes both top roping and lead climbing, where indoor walls can stretch anywhere from 30-70 feet tall. These forms of rock climbing are more endurance focused, with portions of the climbing being easy and other portions acting as a 'crux'.
Top Roping: This includes any climbing where the rope secured onto the climber's harness is anchored at the top of the wall. It can be anchored to either an auto-belay or a climbing partner who will act as the belayer incase the climber falls or needs to get down. Tall climbs like this require a belay so that climbers only has to worry about moving up.
Lead Climbing: This includes scenarios where the climber 'clips in' to various anchors that have been secured up the climb; they are usually every 10-15 feet. Lead climbing is more advanced than top roping and bouldering as it takes more advanced skill to maintain balance while also securing the rope and climbing up 60-70ft walls.
Full Body Exercise
All forms of rock climbing will serve as a full body workout. Your upper body is responsible for pulling up and securing your body to the wall. Your lower body helps you to push up to the next hold and balance on holds to take some of the pressure off the upper body. The core and stabilizer muscles hold everything secure and maintain a consistent tension throughout the climb.
Additionally, climbing trains dynamic movements that cannot be found in normal weight lifting machines because they move linearly. This makes for a more even workout across the entire body. Plus, you can show off to your friends as soon as you can do more pull ups than them.
Getting Started
So you've decided to start rock climbing or bouldering, but have no idea where to start? Well, you're in the right place.
Find a Gym
Find a climbing gym in your area. As the sport grows in popularity, new gyms are opening up every month. Go online to see if there is a gym nearby and get information on their memberships. If you are interested in the options, go in person to get a tour of the place and speak with one of the trainers/setters.
Additionally, the gym may have free or discounted day passes for people considering a membership. This gives you the opportunity to try it out before you join; alternatively, it may just be a fun activity to do once a month with friends.
Climbing Gear
The most important thing to consider when you are starting out is that rock climbing requires some equipment: shoes and chalk for your hands. Additionally, top roping requires a harness and a gym with an auto-belay system. Some gyms include free rental gear with the membership, but others are not as friendly with rentals.
We recommend finding a gym that includes the rental gear within the membership fee until you decide to get your own equipment. For getting your own equipment, we recommend waiting until you have been climbing for a few months. To learn about good deals on the best beginner gear, read our product review here (Coming Soon).
Benefits of a Climbing Gym
Climbing gyms are a very niche place to exercise and in order to offset the cost for consumers, most try to be all inclusive. This begins with having rental gear available for use that is included with the membership: shoes, chalk, rope, and harnesses. Additionally, for more hardcore climbers, there are training aids that might be difficult to get at home: kilter boards, hang boards, and other climb training equipment.
However, most climbing gyms don't stop with just climbing. Most will also have at least a basic weight room and cardio equipment. Some will have other perks like a sauna, yoga studio, or a lounge area where you can sit and relax. It is very dependent on brand, location, and pricing.
Typical Cost
Based on our research, the typical climbing gym membership ranges from $75-$150 a month depending on size, brand, and included benefits. Ultimately, the financial cost of the membership will be a barrier to most people, but we encourage everyone to do a discounted trial or at least get a day pass. It is a great way to try something new and learn about the sport.
Tips for Beginners
Starting out can definitely feel overwhelming. Take your time and get comfortable with the space and even falling. All gyms will have soft mats beneath the wall, but it can be difficult to get past the mental barrier of falling. In the meantime, here are our tips for just getting started.
Find your Difficulty
There are a few different methods for measuring the difficulty or "grade" of a specific climb. Our recommendation would be to learn the system your local gym uses, but here are the two most common for reference.
Level | Beginner | Intermediate | Advanced | Expert | Pro |
V-Scale | V0 - V2 | V3 - V5 | V6 - V8 | V9 - V10 | V10+ |
YDS | 5.2 - 5.7 | 5.8 - 5.10a | 5.10b - 5.11d | 5.12a - 5.12d | 5.13+ |
We recommend starting at the easiest possible one and working your way up until you reach your limit. Grading is a very subjective process and will vary by location. It's a good practice to start at a low grade and practice climbing it with proper form before moving to something at the next level. Proper form will usually feel less energetically intense as more of your weight is consistently balanced on holds. However, it can be helpful to practice above your current limit, without intending to reach the top. Rather, practicing the first few holds of a climb two grades above your limit may be a good way to train and learn about techniques.
Chalk Up
Chalk is used to keep your hands dry so they can better grip the holds. If you are prone to sweating, you may need to rechalk your hands more often. It can become messy with gym bags and clothes, but it is an essential part of climbing as the holds become extremely slippery with sweaty hands. For tougher grades, the holds get smaller and less grippy. Over time, the chalk may dry out your hands, so make sure to use moisturizers if the skin begins to feel too rough or begins ripping off.
Stretch Out
Flexibility is an important trait when climbing to prevent injury and make your way up tougher climbs. Climbing can be a strenuous activity for your joints and the connective tissues within. It is important to stretch so that this tissue is warmed up and prepared for the strain. Additionally, there are many climbs that will be made easier if you have the hip flexibility to lift your leg up to holds and the arm mobility to pivot your body weight.
Start Slow
Climbing is like any other sport where it will take time and practice to get stronger and improve your technique. It can be a strenuous activity for the body, especially if you are just starting out. Make sure to take your time and work your way up to more difficult climbs. Listen to your body if joints begin to feel strained. It is better to take a few days to rest and recover than become injured and forced to stop for a month. Be patient with yourself and you will see improvement as your body becomes more accustomed to the movements and exercise.
Observe
One of the easiest ways to improve is to observe or better yet talk to better climbers. Watch how they secure themselves to the wall, transition between positions, and how they control their balance. It can be a great way to learn a new technique or a new way to use a technique you already know. This is especially true if another climber is on the route you have been projecting. This will help you see where you are getting stuck and how to get past that point.
Have Fun
Last but certainly not least, have fun! The community is extremely friendly, the gyms are very welcoming, and the sport can be entertaining to learn/watch. Climbing is a fun way to exercise and meet new people. Especially if you are looking for something different than your current fitness routine.
Conclusion
Rock climbing and bouldering have subtle differences, but both serve as viable options for staying fit and active outside of a traditional gym. Rock climbing can be a new, fun way to incorporate a more dynamic for of fitness to your weekly routine. It may seem overwhelming at first, but it is definitely a worthwhile option to change things up. Reach out with your climbing stories and if you have any suggestions for our "Alternative Exercise" series.
Check out our list of rock climbing terms and slang here.
Also, check out our product reviews for beginner gear here (Coming soon).
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