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One of the best parts about incorporating rock climbing and/or bouldering into your fitness routine is the opportunity to meet other climbers. It can be an incredibly social environment and a great place to make new friends. However, there is a certain level of climbing jargon that you may need to know before you can fully understand your new friends. Read on to learn the most common climbing terms.
Bouldering Terms
For someone just starting out, it can be intimidating to hear more experienced climbers talking to each other or about their current projects. However, rock climbing is a very social activity and more fun when enjoyed with friends. Understanding some of the jargon will help you to communicate with other climbers and learn more about the sport as a whole.
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1. General Terms
These are general terms you will hear just around a climbing gym or talking to other climbers. Whether you are a new climber or just interested in the sport, these basic terms will help you to understand what people are talking about.
Bouldering vs Rock Climbing ("Top Roping")
Bouldering is a form of rock climbing with a minimal amount of gear. Commercially, bouldering gyms won't have walls taller than 30 feet. The emphasis here is usually on both technique and explosive strength. Top roping is typically much taller with a rope and harness securing you to the wall. The rope will either be connected to an auto-belay machine, or a climbing partner on the ground. Be aware that to use a regular belay system, there is a certification process to go through.
Both are forms of rock climbing and many gyms offer both options. Try both and find out which style you prefer.
Climb Grade
The climb's grade is the difficulty level. An easier grade will have easier holds and be more forgiving in the amount of technique and strength required to complete. However, be aware that grading is imperfect. There is no standard and the grading system is entirely subjective. Gyms will normally try to get the sentiment of several setters before assigning a grade.
Climbing Beta
A beta is the series of movements that a climber uses to get up the wall. It is almost like a step-by-step instructions on how to climb. When looking at the route, it might go something like: left foot there, windmill the right arm,
It is common to see different betas on the same route because the purpose is to play to your strengths. A 6ft tall climber will approach things differently than someone who is 5'1". Someone with great balance will approach things differently than someone with an incredibly strong grip. Climbs may be set to favor a particular technique, but it is certainly not the only beta you can employ to get to the top.
Setter
A setter is usually an experienced climber who creates the different climbs you will find in the gym. They create the puzzle that the climbers attempt to solve. Good setters can work at multiple difficulty ranges and still set creative routes.
"Flash"
Flashing is a scenario where someone gets up the climb much faster than normal. It is generally a compliment and achieved by either moving quickly or by skipping the usual beta. Skilled climbers can usually do this on easier grades.
Crux
The "crux" of a climb is the most difficult move or section. It is usually the move that cements the climb's difficulty.
Slab
"Slab" climbs are the opposite of overhangs. These may seems less intimidating than overhangs, but they typically require more focus on balance and footwork than the forearm intensive overhangs.
Project
A project is a certain climb you have been working on for a period of time, and have not gotten up yet. You may not have found the right beta, are missing a technical move, or just haven't built up the strength/flexibility. Whatever the case, a "project" is a climb you are attempting and might want to learn more about.
2. Types of Holds
Holds are any of the places in a climb you are able to put your hands or feet; for indoor climbs, routes can be identified by the specific color of holds.
Starting Holds
Starting hold(s) will be labeled with a marker and usually with their difficulty. The climb officially starts when all limbs are off the ground and the climber is touching the starting hold(s).
End Hold (Finish)
The "finish" will be the top hold. It will be labeled as the end of the climb. In order to complete a route, the climber needs to touch the finish hold with both hands.
Jug
A jug is any grip that gives you a comfortable and reliable spot to grab. Jugs are usually shaped like a small bucket with plenty of space for your fingers to hold on to. They are found in easier grades, but is the standard/default hold for beginner climbers.
Edge
An edge is any hold with a very flat surface, perpendicular to the wall, where more than half of your finger can fit. The best way to hold on to an edge is to make sure your weight is positioned to pull "down" on the edge.
Crimp
A crimp is similar to an edge, but smaller. A crimp will be wide but narrow with only enough room for the tips of your fingers. Crimps are usually reserved for more difficult grades and should be dealt with in the same manner as edges.
Sloper
A sloper is a large hold without any obvious edge or corner to grip. The idea is to slap your hand on top and use the friction between your palm and the hold to remain stable. The easiest way to work around slopers is to keep your body directly below them. Gravity pulling you down will create more friction than if you are even with the hold and being pushed away from the wall.
Gaston and Side Pull
These two holds are different sides of the same coin. Their classification is not based around the shape of the hold, but by the positioning on the wall. It creates an ideal way to "pull" on the hold. There are often scenarios where the same hold can be both a gaston and a side pull at different times in the climb.
Gastons are placed so that the ideal place to grip them is on the side facing the climber's body weight. This creates a need to "pull" outward on the grip. Think of superman ripping off his outer clothes. This grip targets specific muscles in the back and shoulders that are not typically targeted in bouldering.
A side pull is the opposite of an gaston. It involves a hold that is positioned so the ideal side to grip it is facing away from the climber's body weight. This lateral pull creates the tension the body needs to stay on the wall.
Pinch
A pinch will be any hold that requires your thumb to be on the opposite side as the rest of your fingers. Here you are "squeezing" the hold as if your hand was a crab's claw. Pinches are classically vertical holds, but can be made horizontal depending on the hold and the route.
Undercling "Clinger"
Underclings are usually jugs that are positioned "upside down". These are most commonly found on overhang routes, but can really be anywhere. The best way to grip these is to be push up with your legs so that your hands can grip the undercling better; pushing with your legs puts your body weight "above" the hold.
A pocket hold will appear like a hole drilled into a larger slab. It will fit at most three fingers at a time. These are typically for more difficult grades.
Chip
Chips are and "holds" that are overall too small for hands. They are primarily places for feet and more specifically, toes. By planting toes onto a chip, climbers can shift their weight from hands to feet and move to new handholds.
Handle
A handle is (usually) the easiest handle to grab onto. Just as the name suggests, it connected to the wall at two points and allows you to wrap your hand entirely around it. It will look like an old telephone, and is a great secure grip to pivot around.
Volumes
While volumes are technically not a hold, they are often used as part of the climb. A volume is a piece of the wall that sticks out and can be grabbed/stood on. Volumes are a fun way for setters to get creative in how they design a route. They pose a unique challenge/opportunity when route-setting.
3. Climbing Moves
Climbing moves and techniques will get referenced when talking to other climbers about their projects. Learning these terms will help you understand the intricacies of higher level climbs that focus on certain techniques.
Dyno
A dyno is general term for whenever your entire body leaves the wall. This is done to span large gaps between holds and is usually an intentional part of the climb. For shorter climbers, dynos might be more common than anything else.
Knee Bar
A knee bar involves bracing the entire lower half of a leg between two holds. The tension between the knee and the foot provides stability so that the newly freed arm can reach for the next hold.
Heel or Toe Hook
Heel hooks and toe hooks are very fluid techniques that use the feet in a way that is different from the usual toe placement. Hooks can be helpful to create a point of contact and tension in a situation where you cannot plant your foot.
Flagging
Flagging is a general term that usually refers to a counter-balancing technique. Oftentimes you will see a climber lift one leg and place it on the wall without any footholds. This is usually done to shift the weight distribution and be more balanced on the wall. Try it out next time you feel like you are in an awkward position or losing balance one as you make a transition.
Drop Knee
Drop knees are a way of twisting the body (and bending the knee) to keep your hips and the rest of your weight close to the wall. This technique is most commonly found in corner routes. Drop knees allow you to bring your hips in and brace your weight against the two walls.
Windmill
A windmill refers to the slow rotation of the arm over the head. The idea is that usually when you are on a slab, pressing close to the wall, and focused on balancing, sudden movements are not an option. Windmilling the allows you to move your arm to the next hold while not disturbing your balance.
Smear
Sometimes, with larger footholds, you will hear the term "smearing". It usually refers to dropping the heel so that more of the foot is in contact with the hold/wall. The increased surface area helps prevent slipping and is a good practice when standing on volumes.
4. Rock Climbing Terms
The distinction between bouldering and rock climbing is usually in both the height and the use of other tools such as rope, clips, and belays. Here are some terms that might be found specifically in rock climbing.
Free Climbing
Free Climbing is typically found in professional/stunt climbing. It refers to climbing without a rope or harness on a route that was made to be climbed with a rope and harness. It is a risky stunt that is considered extremely dangerous.
Lead Climber
A lead climber uses a rope and harness as a form of security, but free climbs in between anchor points. The rope and harness is connected to a belayer on the ground, but all points of security are below you. Lead climbing is usually reserved for more advanced climbers as it take a higher degree of balance, strength, and comfort on the wall.
Top Roping
Top roping is similar to lead climbing, but is usually considered a bit easier; the rope and harness is secured to an anchor point at the top of the wall. This makes it it less risky in the case of a fall because with proper belaying, there should be minimal if any time in free fall. Top roping is a good way to be introduced to the taller walls without the innate risks of lead climbing. If your gym has an auto-belay, it would be considered as top roping.
"On Belay" & "Belay On"
When working with a belay partner in top roping and lead climbing, there are certain phrases used to ensure communication. "On Belay" will be stated by the climber to make sure the belayer is prepared to belay. "Belay on" is the response that lets the climber know they can begin the climb knowing that their partner is prepared.
Conclusion
Hopefully this guide to rock climbing and bouldering terms will help you understand your new climbing friends. If you ever hear a term that you do not recognize, feel free to ask for an explanation. The climbing community is a friendly and welcoming space that loves to encourage new climbers and share their passion for the sport.
To learn more about starting to climb, read our beginner's guide here.
To learn about climbing gear for beginners, check out our product reviews here. (Coming Soon)
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